Of course you would never find this place without guidance, hidden as it is in a little alley behind understated signage, but less is more, and the young wine-lovers filling the store were all invited because they are connected with the new wave (not so new really) of natural wines engulfing wine culture in Taiwan, particularly affecting younger drinkers.

The labels are all insouciant expressions; the drinkers are almost all under 30 (not me of course), and the wines are remarkably well made. Where are the usual suspects? Maybe I’ve been away too long, but this new crowd all seem to know each other….

The wines are surprisingly good, very few of them over the line for faults that typified natural wines in the bad old days, and many of them are restrained just enough to make their quirks vivacious.

Some of them are blends that would drive a blind taster mad — eg Riesling/Sauvignan Blanc and Pinot Blanc (#19)— complex and intense with a marathon finish, but integrated? Not so much. This and several others (#4,7,16and21) I’ll need to try again.

Suffice to say that all of these wines split tacks with conventional expectations. Bring em on.