ORIENTAL HOUSE put on a fine demonstration of these superb Champagnes from the Côte des Blanc. Carlos Chen, sommelier at Le Jardin, talked through the styles and vintages with his usual affable attention to detail. I have been drinking lots of brut 0 lately, so these selections were like coming home to spring weather.

Of course the vintage 2012 stole the show, but for highest CPzhi we both vote for the Grand Cru NV. They say the sign of a great house is the ability to produce a brilliant NV champagne because each year must taste the same as every other, and finding that sustainable balance is supremely challenging. Thank as ever to ORIENTAL House and the Sherwood. We loved the wine and we loved the convivial ambience, and we all looked great in the sunroom off Toscana.