The world has gone made for Burgundy, even as producing wine in this venerable region becomes increasingly challenging. Domain Wine Cellars has bet heavily on this exploding popularity, and the wine list for 2020 picks out some of the brightest new stars in Burgundy heaven. Domaine’s huge commitment make it possible for us, all in one session, to taste 23 top brands from the region, north to sought, from Chablis to Macon.

Vintage 2020 was one of the hottest and driest in the history of Burgundy (until it was topped by 2022). Harvests were small and picked super early, especially for whites, to avoid high levels of alcohol in the final products, and the wines emerging now reflect this maneuver, which sacrificed phenolic ripeness to keep potential alcohol inside the lines. The wines in general are fiercely acidic with lots of winemaking compensating for fruit that could not be optimal because of the extreme weather. Adding stems to grapes harvested early doesn’t suit my taste, but trend setters these days in France and Japan favor this vegetal style.

In my opinion all these wines need time to rest and integrate their currently disparate components. I know, professionals are supposed to be able to taste through such erratic adolescence to prophesize the rewards of aged maturity. For certain these wines won’t be ready to drink for several years at least, and even then I find it hard to imagine them reaching a balance that includes flavor compounds derived from ripeness. The one exception I found and hence my favorite wine of the event, was the Pernand Vergelesse Premiere Cru Sous Frétille. Along with its citric attack and mouth-bending minerality, this wine alone showed a body of stone fruit and a round viscous surge in the mid-palate.

The good news for Burgundy devotees is that these wines are still well within reach. Get ‘em while you can, but don’t hurt yourself trying to drink them this year or next, and if you must open one, decanting for aeration will definitely help soften the experience. ❤️❤️